MILTON-FREEWATER → SOIL MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE

Local Oregon winery owner Roger Lemstrom was seeing double after walking away from the Oregon Wine Competition with a double gold medal for the Los Rocosos Vineyards’ 2017 Suenos de Luz Reserve Merlot.

“Winning the double gold was definitely a shocker,” Lemstrom said. “We were watching the live stream of the awards on YouTube, and they were going through all the silvers. I looked at my partner and said nothing’s there. She told me to just wait, and I’m glad that I did.”

After the silver medals were awarded, golds were up next, of which Lemstrom took home two — one for the 2020 Arenas Suaves Estate Red Blend and the other for the 2020 Halcon Perigino Estate Grenache.

Saving the best for last, the double gold medal winners were announced, sending Lemstrom walking away with one of the top honors.

Earning a double gold medal means securing a unanimous vote from a panel of three to five judges, affirming that the wine represents the ultimate achievement in its category.

Los Rocosos Vineyards — 84031 Eastside Road — is in the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, which is the only federally recognized American Viticulture Area in the United States that is based on soil type. Translated from Spanish, “Los Rocosos” means “The Rocks,” a fitting name given its unique geological features.

At the Oregon Wine Competition, judging panels — each made up of an experienced wine writer, master sommelier and a master of wine — judge the wines individually over the course of two days. All bottles are securely covered from delivery to completion to ensure impartiality, and the wines are not scored comparatively.

Los Rocosos Vineyards competed in a pool of more than 300 wineries.

After the medals were announced, winners were invited to attend the grand pour in Jacksonville, where the top wines are tasted.

“I got to share my wine with a bunch of folks, which was a really cool experience,” Lemstrom said.

“I was able to celebrate the hard work of the past couple of years.”

On the rocks

Oregon boasts more than 1,000 wineries, with the majority nestled in the Willamette Valley. The Rocks District consistently yields not only world-class wines but also grapes that are sought after by wineries in both Oregon and Washington.

The unique Freewater soil series discovered in The Rocks District stands out among winegrowing regions in the New World. In contrast to the densely packed sand, silt and ash commonly found in the surrounding Valley, The Rocks District distinguishes itself with a surface composition consisting of volcanic basalt stones and gravel.

Originating from the Blue Mountains, this cobblestone-rich soil type was brought here by the Walla Walla River’s deposits.

Lemstrom bought his vineyard seven years ago after he had attended wine school. He said he was never one to stay indoors and that he had no intention of working in a winery. Running a vineyard and being out in the sun was much more appealing to him.

“I started growing grapes and selling them to winemakers,” he said. “Whatever I have left over, I make wine with.”

Growing wine grapes is a seasonal job, and Lemstrom said there is a lot of work involved. “It’s totally worth it though.”

Lemstrom, who said he grows grapes first and makes wine second, said his little patch of stony ground might as well be littered with gold.

At Los Rocosos, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Syrah and Sangiovese grapes are grown.

“Winning this medal is a representation of The Rocks District,” Lemstrom said. “We grow excellent grapes here, and sometimes I feel like it is underrepresented. In an AVA that is tiny, 5.2 square miles, we are producing incredible wine.”

• Hannah McIntyre can be reached at hmcintyre@wwub.com or 509-526-8301.